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More Accra modernism: Lasdun’s National Museum

As a building, the National Museum on Barnes Road represents a strange mix of stylistic imposition and local celebration. Commissioned in 1955 in the run-up to independence and opened to mark it in...

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Fort Batenstein with Frank the Juice Man

More or less everything I know about Fort Batenstein began with Wikipedia*. Not a promising start, is it? Let’s backtrack. I’m walking down Busua beach with Frank the Juice Man, who is a minor local...

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Photos: Late afternoon on Busua beach

Busua isn’t quite my cup of tea, but one of its charms – perhaps because it has been attracting backpackers for so long – is the relative integration of tourist activity with the rest of the town....

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‘Facebook is the internet,’ said no one ever

The Networker, a regular tech column in UK Sunday paper The Observer, waxes concerned: Most new users of the internet in poor countries will be connecting to it via mobile phones. So, according to an...

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Ghana stars in Overlanding West Africa promo

This was put together by professional filmmaker Jamie Noel when he travelled on Overlanding West Africa’s Freetown-to-Accra tour. Look out for Kakum, Cape Coast castle and the Larabanga Mosque, among...

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When life hands you weird honey, make marinade

Look at it. So dark. I doubt that every bottle of Rainforest Honey is as strong and spicy as this one – the stuff they advertise is much lighter, as are other Ghanaian honeys we’ve bought. Season and...

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Santoku, Dzorwulu – restaurant review

Accra is rising. Literally. Roll around the wealthier parts of town and you’ll notice the spread of high-rise, high-density luxury accommodation, a category whose arrival is fairly recent. Hitherto the...

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Photos: The Aburi Gardens helicopter

It is, as far as I’m aware, a Westland Whirlwind, and was apparently left by the British. An urban myth says that it was shot down and crashed here, but there is far too little structural damage for...

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Scarecrow portraits from Biriwa

Ghana’s tourists and tourism promoters make a big deal of beaches. So the plastic crap that the Atlantic washes up can too easily become a reason to stay home, or stay in the hotel. What’s the point of...

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Informal City blog balances Accra’s present and future

The Rockefeller-sponsored blog Informal City Dialogues is putting out some good pieces on Accra at the moment. I’ve particularly enjoyed a recent run of articles by Sharon Benzoni, taking a detailed...

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